Interior painting requires as careful surface preparation as exterior painting does. The introduction of odourless paints now allows every time of the year to be finished. Formerly in the fall or spring, most interior painting in the home was completed, when it was possible to keep the windows open to ventilate the space. But open windows brought dust into the room to mar the painted surface that had been completed. Check Paper Moon Painting.
50 percent planning and 50 percent painting are always a good interior paint work. In your eagerness to get to the brush or roller, do not hurry to prepare the surfaces. If you do not adequately plan the surfaces, in a few months you will be back with the paint brush or roller.
You can find the required details in this section on the application of various types of paint to different interior walls, ceilings and floor materials.
A coat of primer-sealer should be issued to new dry plaster in good condition to be finished with a paint other than water paint, and allowed to dry thoroughly before being examined for uniformity of appearance. In the case of tinted primers, variations in gloss and colour changes indicate whether the entire surface has been fully sealed or not. A second coat of primer-sealer should be added if it is not. A second coat over these areas may be appropriate if only a few “suction spots” are visible.
To the primed surface, a smooth, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish may be added. The primer coat should be followed by two coats of flat wall paint for a flat finish. One coat of flat wall paint and one coat of semi-gloss paint should be added to the primed surface for a semi-gloss finish. One coat of semi-gloss paint and one coat of high-gloss enamel can be used over the primer coat for a high-gloss finish.
Until applying water paints of the calcimine type to new plastered walls they should be measured, using either a glue-water size or if the plaster is dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.
Casein-type cold water paints may be applied either directly to a plastered surface, or a primer-sealer coat may first be given to the surface to equalise uneven suction effects. The same applies to resin-emulsion paints, with the product manufacturer’s advice being given priority in case of doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints typically contain some oil in the binder, only plaster that has thoroughly dried can usually be applied.
Texture wall paints can also be used on walls of plaster. The benefits of this type of paint are that one coat creates a textured decoration economically and relieves the monotony of smooth flat paint. It much more thoroughly protects cracks or patches in the plaster than ordinary wall paint. The drawbacks of texture wall paint are that it gathers dust and is hard to return to a smooth finish. These products are available as water- or oil-based paints, are thicker than ordinary wall paints, and can be used to create textured effects such as random, Spanish, mission, and multicoloured on wallboard as well as plaster.
Usually, composition wallboard does not present any serious painting issues if the usual steps are observed, such as ensuring that the surface is dry and free of grease and oil. The wallboard painting procedure is the same as for plaster; a priming and sealing coat is required, followed by whatever finish coats are desired, or one-coat flat or resin-emulsion style paint may be given.
Water-thinned paint may be applied to wallpaper that is well- bonded to the wall and does not contain dyes which may bleed into the paint. For paint application, one wallpaper thickness is preferable. Paints other than those of the water-thinned type may also be applied to wallpaper by following the directions given for painting plaster. However, wallpaper coated with such a paint is difficult to remove without injury to the plaster.
Wood Walls and Trim
New interior walls and wood trim should be smoothed with sand-paper and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the grain of the wood, the surface may be rubbed with linseed oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or the primer-sealer previously described for walls may be used as a priming coat on wood. One or two coats of semi-gloss paint should then be applied over the thoroughly dry prime coat, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the last coat should be a high-gloss enamel.